Posted By Stephen M. Walt Share

No profound thoughts to offer today; instead, ten rapid-fire, shoot-from-the-hip impressions -- some of them snarky -- from my current road trip. Readers who want to discount what follows can chalk it up to some serious jet lag.

1. British Airways has mastered the art of predatory pricing. First, they canceled my initial flight to London, which meant I couldn't make my connection to Paris in time for my first commitment. So I had to buy a separate one way ticket on Air France to preserve my schedule. But did BA offer to refund the unused portion of my itinerary (which was unused because they canceled the flight)? But nooooooooo! If I wanted a refund, I had to cancel my entire itinerary (which involved four more flights) and then rebook all four of the remaining legs under a new reservation number, but at a new, higher price that cost more than the original ticket. Heads they win, tails you lose. Resolved: avoid BA whenever possible in the future.

2. Alas, Air France is not an appealing alternative; it's no longer a great airline but instead is merely adequate. I still have vivid and glowing memories of flying first class to Paris on my honeymoon (a gift from my mother-in-law, who had a gazillion frequent flyer miles back then). I wasn't in first class this time, but even taking that into account, it was a pretty mediocre experience. And the "tournedos" they served for dinner would have made Escoffier tear his hair. Some poor vache died for no good reason.

3. Public transportation. On the other hand, there were a few experience on the road that put les États-Unis to shame. In Paris, there's a direct train from the airport into Paris, or you can take an Air France bus that leaves frequently, is cheap, and gets you to one of several convenient Metro stops. In London, the "Heathrow Express" rail line is equally convenient, and a virtually seamless way to get from the airport to central London. As you leave customs, there's a guy standing there with a credit card swiper. Thirty seconds later, you have your ticket, the trains leave every 15 mins., and they get you to Paddington in about 20 mins.. Consider that you can't take a train to Dulles or JFK and it reminds how bad most public transport and infrastructure is in the Land of the Free(way).

4. London Taxis. Wow. They're ubiquitous. They have enormous passenger space. The drivers all speak English (it is England, after all). They have a turning radius of about 4 feet. And they're pretty cheap too.

5. The oysters in France are excellent. This is not a news flash. But can somebody arrange a blind taste test between the Old and New World oyster beds? And invite me?

6. I never noticed it before, but there are a huge number of bicyclists on the streets of London, even though the weather is unusually cold. As someone who bikes to work year-round, it's nice to know that the tribe of all-weather, damn-the-traffic cyclists is spread world-wide.

7. The modern world has many wonderful features -- googlemaps, email, cell phones, etc. -- and all of them have proven to be invaluable on this trip. (I'll spare you the details). But they also make us unusually dependent. One of my colleagues on this visit has a malfunctioning ATM card, which makes it nearly impossible for him to get a hold of cash easily and conveniently. In the old days we all carried around wads of "traveler's cheques" (remember those?), now we all tend to assume that if you're in a major city, there's a cash machine within two blocks of anywhere you might be. Not really true, of course, but our reliance on handy little tools like this can leave us totally at sea when the system breaks down. (At this point I pause to knock wood and utter several ancient gypsy incantations against evil spirits).

8. Have you noticed that the more you pay for a hotel, the less likely you are to get free internet service? At first glance this makes no sense: once you've installed Wifi, it doesn't cost the hotel any additional expense if everyone can just use it for free, so why not just make it available to everyone and generate some good will among consumers? The explanation, of course, is that bargain hotels (e.g., Red Roof Inn, Holiday Express, etc.) are competing for the bargain consumer and they offer these perks as way of luring business. By contrast, high end hotels like the Hilton or Four Season assume that customers who can afford to stay there can also afford to shell out another 15 or 20 (!) bucks (or its Euro equivalents) if they want check their email or catch up on what Lynch, Ricks, and Drezner are saying on the FP website. I promise to fix this problem by fiat just as soon as I take over.

9. Wouldn't it be a wonderful thing if all countries had the same electrical systems, and you didn't have to carry around a lot of converters (or even one of those so-called "universal" ones, which seem to work in every country except the one I currently (no pun intended) in.

10. Lastly, a thought experiment: I wonder what Americans would think if every single one of them could travel to Paris or London, go through the airport and ride the public transportation system, and spend a week seeing how well some public institutions (though of course not all) actually work. I somehow suspect a lot of them would come home and ask themselves why Americans don't have the same thing. This effect would be compounded if they all re-entered the United States at Logan Airport or La Guardia. I won't beat my dead horse on crumbling infrastructure again (well, at least not today), but I've been thinking about it a lot on this trip.

MARTIN BUREAU/AFP/Getty Images

 
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WIGWAG

11:20 PM ET

January 12, 2010

To JFK its the Airtrain In Boston It's the Green or Orange Line

Professor Walt, please have a safe and enjoyable trip. Even your critics appreciate your entertaining blog and your willingness to write posts despite being far away from home (even if we're not convinced that they are all that taxing to write).

Next time you are in New York you will be pleased to discover that there is a train to JFK airport; in fact there are two. Here's what you do; leave any terminal at JFK and jump on the "air train." There are two different air trains you can take; one takes you to the Howard Beach subway stop at which you can catch the" A" subway line. Alternatively, take the air train that goes to the Jamaica Subway stop; from there you can catch the "F" subway line that goes to midtown Manhattan. Alternatively once in Jamaica you can catch the Long Island railroad that goes directly into Penn Station (the ride takes 20 minutes). It's new, easy, cheap and fun. The subway only costs $2.50 and the air train only costs $2.50. The Long Island Railroad from the Jamaica station to Penn Station costs $5.00.

By the way, public transportation to Logan Airport isn't all that bad either. Both the Green Line and the Orange Line get you to Logan Airport. It's inexpensive and relatively reliable but admittedly somewhat cumbersome.

As for the Oysters: I'm glad that there is finally something I can agree with you about.

Safe travels!

 

JANBEKSTER

11:38 PM ET

January 12, 2010

The Grass.

The Grass is always greener on the other side of the fence Prof. Walt. In this case the ocean.
khairi janbek.paris/france

 

GRANT

12:39 AM ET

January 13, 2010

I have to agree with the

I have to agree with the assessment of American public transportation. I have far less than hospitable memories of the North East trains and buses in general.

 

HELENA COBBAN

12:49 AM ET

January 13, 2010

London bike lanes

Steve, after noticing the number of cyclists on London roads, did you notice the heavy, sustained and serious investment in bike lanes?

I spent a month living in central London (Bloomsbury,near the British Museum) in early 2007, and I was struck by many aspects of the bike lanes. First, and most important they are continuous. Second, most of them are physically protected from motor-vehicle traffic by actual raised kerbs. Third, at the very frequent traffic lights there's a whole "polling area" in front of where the cars stop, where cyclists who have arrived during a red light can pool at the front for a fast takeoff.

Do you imagine any US traffic planner would be allowed to make accommodations like these for cyclists?

However, for the very best non-car city experience, you should still go to Amsterdam...

 

HOMOSAPIENS

9:28 PM ET

January 13, 2010

Biking and Longevity

There have been many very respectable medical studies about exercise/mortality issues - most of which conclude that bicycling is a singularly beneficial activity. For instance, one who commutes to work by bicycle will have, in middle age and later, a physical condition between 5 and 10 years younger that their age in years. These studies are easy to find on the internet.

 

HELENA COBBAN

12:52 AM ET

January 13, 2010

Oops, typo correction

... make that a 'pooling area' not a 'polling area' at traffic lights. No-one's staying around there long enough to vote in the next election...

 

JANBEKSTER

4:29 PM ET

January 13, 2010

Never Mind Ms. Cobban

Just a Freudian slip, taken in stride.
khairi janbek.paris/france

 

CHRISDORNAN

8:59 AM ET

January 13, 2010

Whatever about New York,

Whatever about New York, which has pretty good public transport infrastructure, I am generally horrified by how badly airports are served in the US.

The Heathrow Express is excellent, but the tube is a cheap alternative that is nearly as good and just as fast for areas of the center east of Paddington. The same would be true of almost any other European city (and shortly Chinese cities). This is going to be increasingly important and It needs to be experienced to be understood.

It is a real shame that insights of the 1970s and the Carter administration (the importance of breaking the dependency on hydrocarbons) weren't acted on way back then. The US would now be in a stronger strategic position to compete with a rising China, where it really matters.

 

RUAPAT@GOOGLEMAIL.COM

10:34 AM ET

January 13, 2010

taxis and bikes

"And they're pretty cheap too."

Say what? Surely some mistake. Maybe in absolute terms if you only have to move around a small area in central London.

Also while the Heathrow Express is very handy, it's also very expensive. At least it's fast; don't even get me started on the Stansted Express (expensive, slow).

In response to Helena's comment, the bike lane situation has improved massively in recent years and may be good in comparison to US cities, but it's pretty terrible in comparison to a lot of continental European cities. I don't have any stats, but based on my observations living here I really don't think that most are physically separated from traffic or even continuous.

 

OMBRAGEUX

11:19 AM ET

January 13, 2010

Dear Professor Walt, Very

Dear Professor Walt,

Very nice to have you in Europe and your are enjoying some of our perks. I don't know if your countrymen could ever appreciate the benefits of "public transportation" (Communist) and "high taxation" ("read-my-lips"). We do worry about our trans-Atlantic cousins and we do question whether your System is reformable at all. It has, after all, required total or partial collapse on previous occasions for there to be "change" (Civil War, Depression, Second World War). In any event, I am sure you could always do a stint teaching in Europe if America ever ran out of money (not that the E.U.'s economy is doing well, except for France and Germany..). I bet there is a seat at Science Po Paris or the London School of Economics that would be very happy to have you.

 

OMBRAGEUX

11:24 AM ET

January 13, 2010

Oh, and by the way...

I know Republicans and libertarians who have studied in Europe (London) for a year. They emerge totally unmoved from the experience.

On the other hand, I also know some Americans who moved to Europe during the 1980s. Insofar as they were political, they would have been "Reagan conservatives". After two decades in Europe, they have changed and so has their home country, to the extent they can't recognize each other any more. The benefits of the welfare state and the reality of the tyranny of money in America (in private and public life!) become rather more apparent. Nevermind the proud-to-be-despised parochialism of the American Right and the total degeneracy of the American media... Things which are now totally incomprehensible to our expats.

 

SID

1:52 PM ET

January 13, 2010

Universal System

The ONLY TWO things in Steve's article caught my attention are:
1. London cabs are cheap - is Steve working in S.African Goldmines and gets his annual bonus in Gold? Even a not so HOT Coffee costs 4-5 Pounds in U.K.
2. Universal system of electrical connection - how about starting with METRIC SYSTEM in U.S it is nightmare for people with common sense to buy any thing in U.s NOT to mention the SCARY MOMENTS in U.S skies because of use of Farenheit, feet and MILES!

 

DAVE123

2:59 PM ET

January 13, 2010

DC has a terrific metro

DC has a terrific metro system and a pretty good bus system. The metro does connect to National Airport. A metro to Dulles is being built. http://www.dullesmetro.com/

 

APARICIO

3:10 PM ET

January 13, 2010

Point No. 9 is so necessary!!!

The world would be a better and peaceful place if we finally agree on electric connectors standarization, it is a nighmare!!!

 

FREDP

3:35 PM ET

January 13, 2010

Points 2 and 9

Professor Walt,

being a French living in the US, I would like to comment on two points:
First, indeed Air France is not what it was before but compared to the service you have on american airlines across the Atlantic, they are still way ahead.
Second, what does "universal" mean in the US? Very often the US itself! How many commercial pretend that their product is the best, biggest in the world? Living in DC, I've seen panels on the sides of the roads about the biggest "junk" in the world. I'm sure India has bigger junk places than a company in Virginia.

Thanks for your valuable posts

 

NORWEGIAN SHOOTER

5:37 PM ET

January 13, 2010

Oh boy

Now everyone knows you're a Francophone (maybe even -phile) and a bike nut? Some would go far as to say that you have sympathy for Gypsies and their witchcraft? You'll never live this down! All you have to do now to get on a wing nut most wanted list is say something in support of the UN!

 

SMCI60652

6:22 PM ET

January 13, 2010

Istanbul

I'd have to say that having seen Istanbul's mass-transit system a few months ago really opened my eyes. Their cleanliness and effeciency, along with the ingenuity of building mass-transit while preserving the old city layout is amazing. My personal preference is to take the ferry as often as I could, the Bosphorous and Golden Horn are just too beautiful to pass up.

Back at home I take the MARC train in to DC for work every day from Maryland - and if any one has had the experience, you'll know why I'm hurrying to get the hell outta here.

I always wondered why no one felt ashamed of the poor infrastructure in DC. There used to be a time not so long ago that we'd know we'd crossed over the US-50/New York Ave border from MD to DC when the car would start shaking on account of all the potholes. This was not that long ago.

The DC Metro is a joke compared to some European metropolitan systems.

And this is the flipping capitol of the 'greatest nation on Earth!'

Sometimes we can be SO full of crap.

 

NORWEGIAN SHOOTER

11:10 PM ET

January 13, 2010

Lucky

I've decided Istanbul is the place I'd most like to see.

 

KASSANDRA

8:53 AM ET

January 14, 2010

Hooray for Istanbul/Turkey

I too find the public transportation system in Istanbul great, not to mention the bus system thruout the country.

And three cheers for Recep Tayyip Erdogan who has always spoken truth to Israel and has even made the neighborhood nasties apologize. One Great Country, Turkey!

 

HOMOSAPIENS

9:39 PM ET

January 13, 2010

Incomprehensible to me

To me it is incomprehensible that this nation's politicians refuse to find the money for massive mass transit improvements and instead elected (yes, there was a choice, unlike with Pearl Harbor) to spend billions on weapons and pointless wars that squander lives, billions of dollars, and our (dubious) claim to be a humane people. We, the small people, are and will suffer some day for all this. The rich and powerful can ride it out, and they know it.
If an individual made these same choices, one would suspect a violence-related mental disorder was at hand.

 

LALEH

12:09 AM ET

January 15, 2010

Public transport and oysters in London

Actually, being a foodie, let me tell ya oysters are much BETTER in the UK. There are lots of seafood that is finer in the US (lobsters, crabs, prawns, salmon), but oysters in this country are simply unmatched. If you happen to be in London on a Friday or Saturday, go to the Borough Market and find the oyster guy. His products will blow you away.

London taxi - They are great. They know exactly where they are going. And their politics is shocking. They must all support the war, Israel and the BNP (I am probably unfairly generalising, but in nearly 10 years of taking London taxis I have only had one progressive taxi driver).

Bikes in London: our public transport is better than the US, but it is still not all that great. I take the bike, but on busy streets feel like I am taking my life in my hands. Now, Amsterdam....

 

LALEH

12:10 AM ET

January 15, 2010

And BA and Air France

And why oh why? The only good airlines in Europe are Virgin, Lufthansa, and KLM in that order (KLM invariably looses my luggage, but Schiphol is such a great hub).

 

MCRESWELL

12:37 AM ET

January 20, 2010

Public Transportation

Although there is much to be said for the French transportation system, I hope that you will not experience "une grève de transport," which is not a rare occurrence in the City of Lights.

 

Stephen M. Walt is the Robert and Renée Belfer professor of international relations at Harvard University.

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